With a population of just under eight million, London is Europe’s largest city, spreading across an area of more than 620 square miles from its core on the River Thames. Ethnically it’s also Europe’s most diverse metropolis: around two hundred languages are spoken within its confines, and more than thirty percent of the population is made up of first, second- and third-generation immigrants. Despite Scottish, Welsh and Northern Irish devolution, London still dominates the national horizon, too: this is where the country’s news and money are made, it’s where the central government resides and, as far as its inhabitants are concerned, provincial life begins beyond the circuit of the city’s orbital motorway. Londoners’ sense of superiority causes enormous resentment in the regions, yet it’s undeniable that the capital has a unique aura of excitement and success - in most walks of British life, if you want to get on you’ve got to do it in London.

  For the visitor, too, London is a thrilling place - and since the beginning of the new millennium, the city has also been overtaken by an exceptionally buoyant mood. Thanks to the lottery and millennium-oriented funding frenzy of the last few years, virtually every one of London’s world-class museums, galleries and institutions has been reinvented, from the Royal Opera House to the British Museum. With the completion of the Tate Modern and the London Eye, the city can now boast the world’s largest modern art gallery and Ferris wheel; there’s also a new tube extension and the first new bridge to cross the Thames for over a hundred years. And after sixteen years of being the only major city in the world not to have its own governing body, London finally has its own elected mayor and assembly.
 

In the meantime, London’s traditional sights - Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral and the Tower of London - continue to draw in millions of tourists every year. Monuments from the capital’s more glorious past are everywhere to be seen, from medieval banqueting halls and the great churches of Sir Christopher Wren to the eclectic Victorian architecture of the triumphalist British Empire. There is also much enjoyment to be had from the city’s quiet Georgian squares, the narrow alleyways of the City of London, the riverside walks, and the quirks of what is still identifiably a collection of villages. And even London’s traffic pollution - one of its worst problems - is offset by surprisingly large expanses of greenery: Hyde Park, Green Park and St James’s Park are all within a few minutes’ walk of the West End, while, further afield, you can enjoy the more expansive parklands of Hampstead Heath and Richmond Park.

  You could spend days just shopping in London, too, hobnobbing with the upper classes in Harrods, or sampling the offbeat weekend markets of Portobello Road and Camden. The music, clubbing and gay/lesbian scenes are second to none, and mainstream arts are no less exciting, with regular opportunities to catch brilliant theatre companies, dance troupes, exhibitions and opera. Restaurants, these days, are an attraction, too. London has caught up with its European rivals, and offers a range from three-star Michelin establishments to low-cost, high-quality Indian curry houses. Meanwhile, the city’s pubs have heaps of atmosphere, especially away from the centre - and an exploration of the farther-flung communities is essential to get the complete picture of this dynamic metropolis.

London Travel : London Attraction  London Travel : Buckingham Palace     “I delight in Buckingham Palace”, said Queen Victoria, when she moved in three weeks after ascending to the throne. She was either an optimist or hadn’t discovered that the drains didn’t drain, the royal apartments were ventilated through the common sewers, the servants’ bells didn’t ring, and there were no sinks for the chambermaids. Additionally, some doors wouldn’t close, and some of the windows wouldn’t open.  The fa?ade of this internationally known palace has not always presented the appearance it does today. It was originally a townhouse built by John Sheffield, the Duke of Buckingham, and a friend of Queen Anne. In 1703 she granted him the land-at the corner of St James’s Park and Green Park-on which the Palace now stands. It was first known as Buckingham House.  Part of the land was once a mulberry garden, planted by James I. Today the 40-acre secluded garden contains specimen shrubs, trees and a large lake. Eight to nine thousand people visit it during the annual garden parties.  George III liked Buckingham House, and, wanting a London residence, bought it in 1762, for ?28,000. He renamed it Queen’s House and gave it to his wife, Charlotte. Many of their children were born at the house.

  It took George IV, on becoming King in 1820, and John Nash, Surveyor-general to George IV when he was Prince Regent, to turn the house into a sumptuous palace. Both had the experience: George IV was the instigator, and Nash the architect, of Brighton Pavilion, that monument to excessive architecture.

  Parliament granted George IV ?150,000 for the rebuilding. A thousand workmen were hired to face the exterior with Bath stone and add new rooms on the western side. Nash demolished the North and South wings and rebuilt them. He constructed Marble Arch as a grand entrance to the enlarged courtyard.

  As work continued, Nash let his costs run away with him, and Parliament complained. Joseph Hume, an English politician and reformer fighting for financial retrenchment, said, “the Crown of England does not require such splendour. Foreign countries might indulge in frippery, but England ought to pride herself on her plainness and simplicity.”

  Nevertheless, elegance reigned, and the rooms, which today are known as the State and semi-State Rooms remain virtually unchanged since Nash’s time.

  The rooms contain much of the furniture and works of art that were originally made for Carlton House (George IV’s London home when he was Prince). English Regency furniture and S?vres porcelain vie for attention in the Green Drawing Room along with silk covered walls and a coved and gilded ceiling. Curving marble staircases and large mirrors add to the Palace decor.

The Picture Gallery, the length of two tennis courts, was designed by Nash to display paintings by Rembrandt, Rubens, Canaletto and others. The Marble Hall, clad in Italian marble, was built by Nash as a sculpture gallery. Its 137 feet contain sculptures purchased by George IV. Among them are three groups by Antonio Canova.

  Nash’s extravagance can be seen in the red silk walls of the State Dining Room and the gold walls and cut glass chandeliers that dominate the White Drawing Room (look for the Royal family’s secret door). Treasures in the opulent Blue Drawing Room, with its 30 fake onyx columns, include the Table of the Grand Commanders, made of S?vres porcelain and once belonging to Napoleon.

  The monarchs’ thrones are located in the scarlet and gold Throne Room used for formal photographs. The thrones are placed beneath a canopy with gold capitalled pilasters on either side and are presided over by a proscenium arch supported by a pair of winged figures of Victory holding garlands.

  The Music Room, on the garden front of the Palace, has seen the christening of Queen Elizabeth’s children. It’s also where guests are presented during a state visit and receptions are held. George IV planned it as his library.

  Unfortunately, George IV died before he could move in and enjoy the remodelled building. William IV ascended to the throne in 1830. Nash was fired for his extravagance, and Edward Blore was hired in his place to finish the Palace. Work continued, but William IV disliked the place and never moved in. The bills amounted to ?700,000 by the time Queen Victoria was crowned in 1837. When she moved in, Buckingham Palace became, for the first time, the official London residence of Britain’s sovereigns.

  Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s rapidly expanding family needed nurseries. The Palace was short of bedrooms for guests. More building followed. Marble Arch was moved to the northeast corner of Hyde Park to make room for a fourth wing that turned the Palace into a quadrangle.

  There wasn’t a room large enough for grand entertainments, so in 1853-55, Queen Victoria ordered the Ballroom built. 122 feet long, 60 feet wide and 45 feet high, it is, today, used for many events such as the State Banquet, the Diplomatic Reception, and memorial concerts. This is the site of Investitures, where the Queen presents the recipients of British honours with their awards.

  It was after Queen Victoria’s death that the Palace metamorphosed into today’s familiar landmark. The present graveled forecourt and the wrought iron and bronze gates were added in 1911. A memorial statue to Queen Victoria, flower gardens, and a new road layout were completed. The memorial statue is topped by the gilded figure of Victory, and Queen Victoria is surrounded by the figures of Charity, Truth and Justice. In 1913 the deteriorating stone on the east front was replaced by Sir Aston Webb with gray Portland stone.

  During World War II a chapel, converted by Queen Victoria from Nash’s conservatory, was bombed. Prince Philip oversaw its rebuilding as the Queen’s Gallery, home to a rotating collection of art from the Royal Collection. The Gallery, currently in the process of renovation, will reopen in 2002 for the Queen’s Golden Jubilee. There will be a new Doric Portico entrance in the Greek classical style and new interior spaces and galleries. For the first time Buckingham Palace will have a coffee bar. Would Queen Victoria be amused?

  More than 600 rooms, including 52 Royal and guest bedrooms, 188 staff bedrooms, 92 offices and 78 bathrooms comprise the castle’s assets. But the “room” best known around the world is the balcony where the Royal family gathers on celebratory and solemn occasions to be seen by their subjects. The forecourt below is witness to the ceremony of the changing of the guard. In their full dress uniform of red tunic, black pants and bearskin hats, the ceremony is a magnet for tourists.

  The Palace is more than a home for the Royals. It is the official administrative headquarters of the monarchy and contains the offices of their staff. It is the place where all Royal ceremonies and official banquets are held. Government ministers, top civil servants and heads of state visit to carry out their duties. More than 50,000 people visit Buckingham Palace each year, either officially or as guests. It brings a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘working from home’.

  London Travel :TRAVEL INFORMATION

  Current opening details for Buckingham Palace, Queen’s Gallery, and the Royal Mews, can be found at the official royal website www.royalcollection.org.uk <http://www.royalcollection.org.uk>. A timed entry system is in effect, with admission every 15 minutes throughout the day. Tickets may be booked online at the royal website, or in person at the ticket office in Green Park (contact information below). Visits to Buckingham Palace can be combined with visits to The Queen’s Gallery and the Royal Mews.

  London Travel :ACCESSIBILITY

  Disabled visitors should contact the Visitor Office by emailing buckinghampalace@royalcollection.org.uk <mailto:buckinghampalace@royalcollection.org.uk>.

  The Changing of the Guard takes place at 11:30 daily from

April until the end of June and on alternate days for the rest of the year (weather permitting).

  London Travel :Westminster Abbey  In this series of articles we’ll take a look at the most famous necropolis (burial place) in Britain - Westminster Abbey. The Abbey has such a long history that we’ll break things up a bit into edible chunks - history is easier to digest that way. To open a floor plan of the abbey in a separate browser window click here <http://www.britainexpress.com/articles/London
Westminster_Abbey_plan.htm>.  Westminster  Abbey  The Abbey at Westminster is built upon what was once an island - Thorney Island - a marshy retreat from the City of London. The island was at one time flanked by two channels of the Tyburn River, which flowed where Downing Street and Great College Street now run.

  There may have been a Christian church on Thorney Island as early as 604 AD, just eight years after the first Christian mission under St Augustine landed near Canterbury in 596 AD. In that same year of 604, Ethelbert, uncle of the king of the East Saxons, founded St Paul’s in the City of London.

  Later royals followed the pattern; King Edgar (957-75) gave land for a church, and several kings, including Canute and Ethelred, donated relics. St Dunstan endowed a place for a dozen monks in 960 AD. But it is to one man that we owe the marvellous church we can see today. Edward the Confessor (1042-1066) had a vision of an eclesiastic-royal complex including a palace with a large monastery and an abbey church suitable for royal functions and burials.

  Devout though Edward certainly was, he was also driven by guilt in his building project. Earlier in his reign he had been forced to flee from a Danish invasion into exile in Normandy. He made a solemn vow that if he ever regained his throne he would make a pilgrimage to Rome in gratitude.

  He did indeed manage to oust the Danes and regain the throne, but the politically uncertain climate made it unwise for him to leave for Rome. Pope Leo, being an understanding sort, excused Edward from his vow - on condition that the king re-endow the monastery of Westminster.

  So Edward went to work. He rebuilt the old Saxon church in the new Romanesque <http://www.britainexpress.com/> style and began his palace nearby. The work was consecrated on December 28, 1065, but Edward himself lived only another eight days. Harold Godwinson followed him as king, and he may have begun the tradition of royal coronations in the Abbey. Certainly Harold’s successor, William the Conqueror, was crowned here, on December 25, 1066.

  See also : Part 2 in this series <http://www.britainexpress.com/articles/London/London.htm>, covers the history of the abbey from 1066 to the present. Part 3 <http://www.britainexpress.com/articles/.htm>, takes a virtual tour, pointing out what is worth seeing in the Abbey today. To open a floor plan of the abbey in a separate browser window click here <http://www.britainexpress.com/articles/London/

Westminster_Abbey_plan.htm>.

  Parliament Square, SW1. Opening times vary; it’s good to check the Abbey website for details. There is no admission charge for services, but there is a fee for general admittance. Verger-led tours are available.

  London Travel :Big Ben  When most people heat the words “Big Ben” they immediately conjure up an image of the striking Victorian Gothic structure of the clock tower of the Palace of Westminster (the Houses of Parliament). Let’s clear up a common misconception first; technically speaking, the name “Big Ben” does not refer to the famous tower, nor to the four huge clock faces of this London landmark; instead, it refers to the largest of the five bells inside the clock tower, whose chimes are such a familiar sound to listeners to BBC radio over the years

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The tower was begun following the disastrous fire which destroyed the old Palace of Westminster in 1834. Charles Barry was given the contract to rebuild the Palace, and his designs included a clock tower.   The Tower

  The clock tower of the Palace of Westminster took 13 years to build, and was completed in 1856. The tower is 316 feet high. The spire that rises above the belfry is built with an iron frame, and it is this frame which supports the weight of the bells. A staircase rises up inside the tower, and a climb is rewarded by excellent views from the belfry level. Several small rooms are built into the lower part of the tower, including a small prison cell.

  The Clocks

  The cast iron frame of the clock face was designed by AW Pugin <http://www.britainexpress.com/History/bio/pugin.htm>, who was responsible for much of the Gothic decorative elements of the Palace of Westminster. The dials are 23 feet in diameter and the faces themselves are not solid, but is composed of many small pieces of opal glass, assembled like a stained glass window. Several of the central pieces of glass can be removed to allow inspection of the hands from inside the clock tower. The numbers on the clock faces are each two feet high. An inscription in Latin below each clock face translates as “God save our Queen Victoria I”.

  At the time of its construction the clock mechanism was easily the largest in the world, and it is still among the largest today. The clock mechanism, designed by Edmund Beckett Denison, has proven to be remarkably accurate over the years, allowing small adjustments to the clock’s rate to be made by placing pennies on a small shoulder of the clock’s pendulum!

  London Travel :The Hour Bell

  Big Ben - the hour bell - is said to have been named after Sir Benjamin Hall, Commissioner of Works, who was known for his bulk, as is the bell! The first Big Ben hour bell was complete before the tower, so the bell was hung in New Palace Yard. After repeated public ringing the bell cracked, and had to be replaced by the current bell.

  Facts and figures The hour bell of Big Ben is 8 feet in diameter, weighs 13.5 tons, and was cast in 1858 by George Mears of the Whitechapel Bell foundry.

  The bell had to be placed in a special wooden frame, turned on its side, and hoisted up the centre of the tower to the belfry. So heavy was Big Ben that the process took over 36 hours to complete. The bell began ringing the hours in July of 1859, but it cracked after only two months of use. Instead a recasting the bell, it was simply given a quarter turn, and a lighter hammer used to strike the hours.

  The Chimes

  The first BBC radio broadcast of the Big Ben chimes was on New Year’s Eve, 1923. Later, permanent microphones were placed in the tower, and the sound of Big Ben became a familiar one to listeners, assuming great significance during WWII, when the chimes became a symbol of hope and home to BBC World Service listeners around the world.

  The best time to see Big Ben may be at night, when the clock faces are illuminated, as is the facade of the Palace of Westminster facing the Thames. The effect from Westminster Bridge or the far bank of the Thames can be breathtaking.